We leave our Central Minnesota cabin open all winter, but with the rising cost of fuel to drive there and to heat the cabin, perhaps one of these years we'll shut 'er down over winter.

In the Midwest, closing the cabin for winter is one of those things you never really look forward to I'm sure—but you know you'll miss it once you're gone.

There's the last morning coffee on the deck. One more walk down to the water. Maybe one last afternoon of fishing if the weather cooperates. Then comes the less-fun part: putting everything away, shutting things down, and making sure the cabin is ready for whatever winter has in store.

And around here, winter can have a lot in store.

Whether your cabin is in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, Iowa, the Dakotas, or somewhere else across the Midwest, freezing temperatures can be hard on a cabin that's going to sit empty for months.

A little time spent winterizing now can save a lot of time, money, and frustration when you open the door again next spring.

Here's our Midwest cabin winterization checklist for closing up your lake place for the season.

 

When Should You Winterize Your Cabin?

The answer depends on where your cabin is located and whether you'll be keeping the heat on.

For most Midwest cabins, you want to have your winterization plan in place before the first extended stretch of freezing temperatures.

That doesn't necessarily mean you need to close the cabin the first time the forecast dips below 32°F. But if you're done visiting for the season, don't wait until a deep freeze is in the forecast to start draining the plumbing.

Pay particular attention if your cabin has:

• Plumbing in exterior walls
• An unheated crawl space
• A shallow well
• An attached garage with plumbing
• Older or poorly insulated pipes
• A furnace or boiler that won't be running
• Water lines in other unheated areas

The goal is simple: don't leave water sitting in places where it can freeze.

Midwest Cabin Winterization Checklist

1. Shut Off the Water

Start with the water.

If your cabin has a private well, turn off the well pump and shut off the main water supply.

If you're on a municipal water system, shut off the main water valve.

Then open faucets throughout the cabin to relieve pressure and begin draining the system.

This is one of those jobs that's worth taking your time with. Water can hide in places you don't immediately think about.

 

2. Drain the Plumbing

This is probably the most important part of winterizing a cabin.

Drain as much water as possible from the plumbing system.

Don't forget:

• Kitchen sinks
• Bathroom sinks
• Showers
• Bathtubs
• Outdoor faucets
• Utility sinks
• Toilets
• Washing machine connections
• Dishwasher
• Refrigerator water line
• Ice maker
• Water filtration equipment
• Water heater

Depending on your plumbing system, you may need to use compressed air or RV/marine antifreeze to protect areas where water remains.

Important: Never use automotive antifreeze in your cabin's plumbing. If antifreeze is appropriate for your system, use a product specifically intended for potable-water plumbing and follow the manufacturer's directions.

If you're not sure how to winterize your particular plumbing system, a plumber can often do the job for considerably less than the cost of repairing burst pipes.

 

3. Winterize the Water Heater

Don't forget about the water heater.

A water heater can hold a surprising amount of water, so simply turning it off isn't necessarily enough.

If you're shutting down the cabin for winter:

• Turn off the water supply.
• Turn off the water heater.
• Turn off electrical power before draining an electric water heater.
• Drain the tank according to the manufacturer's instructions.

If you have a gas water heater, follow the manufacturer's instructions for shutting it down.

And remember: never turn on an electric water heater when the tank is empty.

 

4. Protect Toilets and Drains

Even after you've drained the plumbing, water can remain in toilet bowls and plumbing traps.

Depending on your system, use appropriate RV/marine antifreeze in:

• Toilets
• Sink drains
• Shower drains
• Floor drains
• Other plumbing traps

Follow the product instructions and make sure you're using a product designed for plumbing systems.

 

What If I Leave the Heat On?

This is one of the biggest decisions you'll make when closing a cabin.

Some lake homes are completely winterized and shut down.

Others stay heated all winter.

If you're leaving the heat on, don't assume that means you don't need to winterize.

Heat is a backup—not a guarantee.

A furnace can fail. A power outage can shut everything down. A thermostat can malfunction.

If you're leaving the heat on:

• Set the thermostat appropriately.
• Replace the furnace filter.
• Have the heating system serviced if necessary.
• Make sure vents aren't blocked.
• Confirm you have adequate fuel.
• Consider a low-temperature monitoring system.
• Make sure someone can check the cabin if you receive a temperature or power alert.

If your cabin has water in the plumbing system, proper winterization can provide an additional layer of protection even if you plan to keep the heat running.

 

Don't Forget the Fireplace

For a lot of us, the fireplace or wood stove is part of what makes a cabin a cabin.

Before you close up:

• Remove ashes
• Check the chimney
• Check the flue
• Inspect the chimney cap
• Check for creosote buildup
• Make sure the stove pipe and connections are in good condition

If your cabin's fireplace or wood stove needs cleaning or inspection, fall is a good time to take care of it.

 

Clean Out the Refrigerator

This sounds obvious.

Ask anyone who has opened a forgotten cabin refrigerator in the spring, though, and they'll tell you it belongs on the list.

If you're shutting off the refrigerator:

• Remove everything.
• Clean the inside.
• Dry it completely.
• Unplug it.
• Leave the doors slightly open.

That last step matters.

A little trapped moisture can turn into a pretty memorable smell by spring.

 

Give the Mice a Reason to Keep Moving

A closed cabin is basically an invitation to mice.

Food is the first thing to deal with.

Before you leave:

• Remove all food.
• Empty the garbage.
• Clean crumbs from counters and cabinets.
• Don't leave pet food behind.
• Store remaining food in sealed containers.
• Check around pipes and utility penetrations.
• Seal obvious entry points.

Look around the foundation, garage, crawl space, and areas where pipes enter the building.

You may not be able to make your cabin completely mouse-proof, but you can certainly make it less inviting.

 

Take a Look at the Roof

Before you drive away for the season, look up.

Check for:

• Missing or damaged shingles
• Loose flashing
• Roof penetrations
• Damaged vents
• Chimney issues
• Debris
• Clogged gutters

Make sure downspouts are directing water away from the foundation.

It's much easier to fix a small roof problem in October than discover it after several months of snow, ice, and freeze-thaw cycles.

 

Protect Your Lake Gear

There's another part of closing the cabin that doesn't have much to do with the cabin itself.

The stuff outside.

Before winter arrives, take care of:

• Boat and motor
• Dock sections
• Kayaks and canoes
• Paddleboards
• Fishing gear
• Life jackets
• Grills
• Patio furniture
• Lawn equipment
• Tools
• Outdoor toys

Basically, anything you don't want sitting outside under a foot of snow.

And if you've got a boat sitting in the driveway, don't forget to properly winterize the motor and plumbing according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

Check the Basement and Sump Pump

If your cabin has a basement or crawl space, give it one last inspection.

Check:

• Sump pump
• Backup sump pump
• Battery backup
• Discharge line
• Floor drains
• Foundation walls
• Plumbing
• Signs of moisture

If your sump pump is important to protecting the cabin, make sure you know what happens if the power goes out.

Don't Shut Off Every Breaker Automatically

It's tempting to walk over to the electrical panel and shut everything down.

But some cabins need electricity through the winter.

You may need power for:

• Furnace
• Sump pump
• Security system
• Internet
• Temperature monitoring
• Refrigerator
• Other essential equipment

Turn off and unplug what you don't need, but make sure anything that needs to remain operational has reliable power.

If you're completely shutting down the electrical system, follow the recommendations for your particular cabin and equipment.

Test Your Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Before you leave:

• Test smoke detectors
• Test carbon monoxide detectors
• Replace batteries if needed
• Check expiration/replacement dates
• Check fire extinguishers

If you use the cabin during the winter, this is especially important.

 

The Final Walk Around

This might be the most important part of the whole process.

Once you've finished everything else, walk around the property one more time.

Look at the cabin the way you would if you were seeing it for the first time.

Check:

• Doors
• Windows
• Roof
• Gutters
• Sheds
• Garage
• Outdoor faucets
• Deck
• Dock storage
• Boats
• Electrical equipment
• Anything that looks out of place

Take a few photos while you're at it.

Photos of the cabin, utility areas, thermostat, and major equipment can give you something to compare against when you return in the spring.

Your Midwest Cabin Closing Checklist

Print this handy Midwest Cabin Winterization Checklist

WATER & PLUMBING

☐ Shut off main water
☐ Turn off well pump
☐ Drain pressure tank, if applicable
☐ Drain plumbing
☐ Drain water heater
☐ Drain outdoor faucets
☐ Drain appliance water lines
☐ Protect traps and toilets as appropriate
☐ Check exposed plumbing

HEATING

☐ Decide whether heat will remain on
☐ Set thermostat
☐ Replace furnace filter
☐ Test furnace
☐ Check fuel supply
☐ Check vents
☐ Set up temperature monitoring if desired

KITCHEN

☐ Remove food
☐ Clean refrigerator
☐ Unplug refrigerator if shutting it down
☐ Leave refrigerator door open
☐ Empty garbage
☐ Clean crumbs

FIREPLACE / WOOD STOVE

☐ Remove ashes
☐ Check chimney
☐ Check flue
☐ Check chimney cap
☐ Inspect stove and connections

EXTERIOR

☐ Inspect roof
☐ Clean gutters
☐ Check downspouts
☐ Check windows and doors
☐ Secure sheds and outbuildings
☐ Check for animal entry points

LAKE & OUTDOOR GEAR

☐ Winterize boat
☐ Store dock
☐ Store kayaks/canoes
☐ Store fishing equipment
☐ Store life jackets
☐ Secure grill
☐ Store patio furniture
☐ Store lawn equipment

SAFETY

☐ Test smoke detectors
☐ Test CO detectors
☐ Check fire extinguishers
☐ Check sump pump
☐ Check backup power
☐ Check security system

FINAL WALK-THROUGH

☐ Take photos
☐ Remove garbage
☐ Check faucets
☐ Check appliances
☐ Lock windows
☐ Lock doors
☐ Secure garage
☐ Check outbuildings
☐ One last walk down to the lake

Then Turn the Key and Head Home

There's a funny thing about closing the cabin.

You're doing all this work because you're leaving.

But you're also doing it because you know you'll be back.

The lake will freeze. Snow will cover the yard. The cabin will sit quietly through the winter.

And then one day, probably sooner than it feels right now, you'll pull into the driveway again.

You'll unlock the door.

You'll open the windows.

You'll start the coffee.

And you'll walk down to the lake just to see what's changed.

Until then, take care of the cabin. It'll be waiting for you.

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